Swirl  -A colorwork hat, worked in the round-

This is my attempt to create a pattern for a hat I improvised.

The chart is based on a much larger chart created by Jessica Tromp.

I chose to use a G hook to help keep the stitches tighter so that the carried yarn doesn't show as much through the stitch work.

MATERIALS:
DK weight yarn:  
   -about 150 yds of the main color
   -about 100 yds of white.
G hook (4.0 mm)

I used Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable, which is listed as worsted but works more like DK, and Bernat Baby Coordinates. 

FINISHED SIZE:
Based on your head size... 

STITCHES USED:

sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
fpdc- front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet

INSTRUCTIONS:

Main Body-

The chart is in 20-stitch repeats, so measure the circumference of your head and work a starting chain, in multiples of 20, that is closest to your head size.  I chose to go slightly larger because this hat does not have a lot of "stretch" to it.  My starting chain was 120 stitches. Join the chain to form a ring.  

Mark the join, so you can tell where your rounds begin.

The only stitch used for the chart is single crochet (sc).

Work 6 rounds in the main color, as shown in the color chart below.

When indicated in Row 6 of the chart, join white and continue working in sc as the chart shows, in continuous rounds.  (Working in continuous rounds prevents an obvious "seam" in the finished project).

Cut and work in the main color after completing round 23.

Work 2 rounds in white, as indicated in the chart.

Round 26:  After the second row of solid white (row 25), begin decreasing to create the top of the hat.  I decreased every 5th stitch for about 8 rows.  

By round 33 or 34, there should be a very small opening left in the hat.  Finish the opening by cutting about 4" of the white yarn, and weave it through the remaining stitches.  Pull that single strand of yarn tightly to gather the opening closed, then tie off on the wrong side (inside) of the hat and work the loose end in to hide it.

Edging-

To finish the opening of the hat, rejoin the main color to the opening chain

 Round 1: Work dc in each ch all around (120 dc, or whatever number of chains you needed to fit your head).

Join the last dc to the first dc with a slip stitch, ch3.

Round 2: Begin forming a ribbed effect.  Work fpdc in next dc, bpdc in dc repeat alternating fpdc and bpdc around edge.  Join last fpdc to beginning ch3 with slip stitch.  Ch 3.

Round 3 and 4:  repeat round 2, working fpdc in the fpdc below and bpdc in the bpdc below to create a ribbed effect.

Cut main color, tie off and work in the end to hide it.

I hope you have success with this hat, and enjoy wearing it!

A Rose By Another Name

I found a lovely pattern for a scarf, named Juliet, by Louisa Harding.  It is a lovely little scarf, and it is a knitting pattern.

I am not a big fan of knitting lace.  I'm not good at it.  I do, however like crocheted lace, so I decided to try my own version... a rose of any other name CAN smell as sweet.

This is not a pattern so much as a description of what I did.  I hope that viewers will take my comments and create their own individualized project. 

 

I also hope you have some fun creating your own version...
 

MATERIALS:

• Fingering weight yarn:  1 skein should be enough for the main color.  A few yards of a coordinating color for the rose will also be needed..
• D hook (3.25 mm)

FINISHED SIZE:

• Approximately 60" X 7"

Make the flower first.  There are tons of 3-dimensional flowers in the Ravelry database.  I improvised mine.

After your flower is finished, chain about 8 stitches across the back (wrong side) of the finished flower.  This will be the base for starting the actual scarf, and also will make the keyhole to hold the scarf when finished.

 

I worked 20 dc into the chain loop.  I then continued in a mesh pattern until I ran out of yarn.

The mesh pattern I used is a sort of variation of a V-stitch pattern, and I think it made a nice, delicate-looking scarf.  The diagram below is as close as I can get to the stitch pattern I used in this project.  It's a sort of marriage between a V-stitch and a Star Stitch.

I found the project edges were not as even and "finished" as I wanted, so I allowed enough yarn at the end to do an sc edging around 3 edges of the scarf.

Here is the finished item and I think it looks really nice when worn.with the square end pulled through the keyhole.

Thanks for viewing!

Budding Arches

So many lovely shawls and wraps are available, but there are some designs that are not often done in crochet.  This is a form that is similar in look to many popular knitted wraps/shawls, but is crocheted. 

 

This piece is worked in sections, but without seams.  First the "body" is worked.  When the body is completed, the yarn is joined to one side and the edging is worked directly along the edge, without seaming. It is on the easy side of intermediate in skill level, due to increases, decreases, and chart reading.

 

I hope you like this as much as I do.
 

MATERIALS:

• Fingering weight yarn:  430-900 yds, depending on size desired.
• D hook (3.25 mm)

FINISHED SIZE:

• Approximately 60" (across longest edge) X 15" (center widest point)

FIRST POINT OF BODY

Chain 4

ROW 1:  Skip 3 dc. Work 2 dc in first ch.  Ch 3. Turn

ROW 2:  *Work 1 dc between 2 dc of previous row* Repeat between * once. Ch 3. Turn

ROW 3 :  Work 2 dc between 2 dc of previous row(one increase completed). *Work 1 dc between 2 dc of previous row* Repeat between * twice. Ch 3. Turn

 

Continue in the pattern created in rows 2 and 3, increasing 1 stitch only on one side of of your work, until the piece measures 20” (or about 1/3 the desired length).

 

Make last row as Row 2 (a row without an increase).


BODY MIDDLE

Continue in the pattern created in row 2, until the piece measures 20" (or about 1/3 the desired length).

Assure that the last row of this section ends on the "slanted side of the First Point of Body, so that the decreases in the Second Point of Body are on the same side.
 

SECOND POINT OF BODY

ROW 1: Work in pattern (1 dc between the dc of posts of previous row) to the last 2 stitches.  Work dec over last 2 spaces of the row.

ROW 2:  *Work 1 dc between 2 dc of previous row* Repeat between * to end of row. Ch 3. Turn

Work Rows 1 & 2 (decreasing on only one end of every other row) untll there are 4 dc.  Tie off yarn and work in the end to complete the body.

The body is now a long strip with pointed ends.

I used one entire skein of about 450 yards for the body.  To continue with the edging, I joined a new skein and did a simple edging all around, using 2sc on each post along all 3 sides.  From there, the lace edging can be added.
 

ANGLE-SIDE LACE EDGING

For the pattern of the lace edging, I feel more comfortable using a chart.

 

The lace edging is worked from one point along the pointed side of the triangle to the opposite point.

LONG-SIDE EDGING

The straight long edge of the triangle may be left in simple sc, working 2 sc over each dc post along the top edge, or more edging of your choice may be added.

 

Wayfaring Stranger

An asymmetrical wrap/shawl, inspired by Hitchhker, a knitted shawl pattern, by Martina Behm.

Wayfaring Stranger is mostly Basic Tunisian crochet, with a few sc thrown in as needed.  This pattern assumes the user is familiar with those stitches and does not explain them.






Gauge and hook size are not important.  Use whatever weight yarn makes  you happy.  I do suggest that you use a hook slightly larger than called for the yarn you are using.  With Fingering yarn, I used a G hook (4.00 mm), rather than the suggested D (3.25 mm).


Setup:

Ch. 3

1. Work 5 sc in the first ch. - 6 stitches total.
2. Pull "rods" for Tunisian in each of the 6 stitches of the previous row.  Complete the row in Basic Tunisian.
3. Increase 2 stitches at the beginning of the row by pulling a "rod" up between the first two rods of the previous row, draw a loop through the rod below (as normal for Tunisian) then pull up another "rod" in the space between the second and third "rods".  Pull loops through "rods to the end of the row, as for Tunisian.  Finish row as for Basic Tunisian, remember to work the 2 increases in the order they occur on the hook.
4. Repeat row 3.
5. Repeat row 3, except do not work the last 4 stitches.  This creates the first "tooth".

Working the Shawl:

• Continue working as in the Setup. 
• Increase 2 stitches at the beginning of each row.
• Work 4 rows even, then on the 5th row, leave the last 4 stitches unworked.  This will make the 5th row become the first row of the next tooth.   A tooth is 4 rows by 4 stitches, in size and all teeth occur on the same side of the shawl, and on the opposite side from the increases..
• Continue working until you run out of yarn, or reach the size you want.
• Basic Tunisian does curl.  Do not panic.  Edging the entire shawl in sc, once it is the right size, should eliminate the curling.

The increases on the one side will created a curved edge.  The second edge will have "teeth", and the third edge will be straight.

Buffalo Wall Hanging

I work in a Wildlife Reserve in the American Southwest and I decided I wanted something thematic for my office wall.

I sketched out a silhouette of an American Bison (Buffalo) then jazzed it up with a scrub tree and a little grass.  It was okay but needed more, so I added a little geometric art at the bottom and an improvised sun in the sky, to give it a more Native American feel.  I like how the chart turned out, and now I'm working on finishing the project, crocheted with thread.

Here is the chart:

Pulsation Scarf

MATERIALS

• Worsted Weight yarn in 2 colors (CA and CB)
• Knitting Needles: 10-1/2, 18"
• Crochet Hook: H (5.0 mm)

This pattern is worked "length-wise". It creates a long, wide scarf.
My finished project measures 14" X 68". 

A hint to help keep track of your work: This project is worked in sets of 10 rows, altering the amounts of color to create a regular, "radiating" pattern...

• 10 CA
• 2 CB + 8 CA
• 4 CB + 6 CA
• 6 CB + 4 CA
• 8 CB + 2 CA
• 10 CB

BODY

1. With CA, Cast on 180.
2. With CA, work 10 rows of stockinette.
3. Attach CB and work 2 rows of stockinette.
4. With CA, work 8 rows of stockinette.
5. Attach CB and work 4 rows of stockinette.
6. With CA, work 6 rows of stockinette.
7. Attach CB and work 6 rows of stockinette.
8. With CA, work 4 rows of stockinette.
9. Attach CB and work 8 rows of stockinette.
10. With CA, work 2 rows of stockinette.
11. Attach CB and work 10 rows of stockinette.
12. Bind off loosely.
13. With last loop from Bind Off, pick up with H hook and crochet evenly around all edges.  I used a V stitch pattern around (2 dc in first stitch, skip one stitch, 2dc in next stitch, etc)
14. Work all loose ends in.

This pattern is the property of the designer. It is available for use, free of charge, for personal use only. No copies of this pattern or images may be sold or reproduced for profit, without the express permission of the author.

Harlequin Toque

Something a touch different.

MATERIALS

• Worsted Weight yarn in 2 colors (CA and CB)
• Crochet Hook: I (5.5 mm)
• Darning needle

BODY

1. With CA, Chain 20.
2. With CA, work 5 rows of basic Tunisian stitch.
3. Attach CB and work 5 rows basic Tunisian stitch.
4. Repeat the alternating 5-row pattern until desired length is reached, ending on CB. (Mine was 60 rows)
5. Slip stitch across last row, to finish body.  Set aside

RIBBED BAND

1. With CA, chain 11.
2. Skip 1 ch.  Work sc in BLO across. Ch 1. Turn.
3. Repeat row 1 five more times (total 6 rows, total).
4. Attach CB.
5. Work 10 sc across as before, for 6 rows. 
6. Alternate colors CA and CB every 6 rows until there are the same number of colored sections as the body. 
7. Tie off.

ASSEMBLY

1. Align the band along the long edge of the hat body so that Body CA is lined up with the Band CB. 
2. With right sides together, attach the band to the body using sc, keeping the color patches aligned.
3. Tie off.
4. Fold hat in half, matching the short sides.  It should be worked so that you are joining a CA side to a CB side. 
5. With right sides together, sc the sides together. 
6. Tie off.
7. For the top of the hat, using a darning needle and doubled thread, weave the thread around the top stitches of the hat (opposite of the ribbed band) all the way around.  Pull the doubled yarn tightly so that the hat gathers completely closed. 
8. Tie off well, with hard knots. 
9. Pull all loose ends to the inside of the hat.  Weave in loose ends.

This pattern is the property of the designer. It is available for use, free of charge, for personal use only. No copies of this pattern or images may be sold or reproduced for profit, without the express permission of the author.

Granny's Vibe (blanket)

MATERIALS:

Worsted-weight or DK-weight yarn (6 oz skeins) -

• 12 oz Black,
• 6 oz each of at least 6 different saturated colors.

Crochet Hook Size G for DK
Crochet Hook Size I for Worsted

Color Sequence: 2 rows color, 1 row black.

Finished size:  Approximately 42" X 60"

BLANKET:

With Black, loosely ch 244 for DK or 188 for Worsted.

Row 1: 3 dc in 7th ch from hook, (sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st) twice, *sk 5 sts, (3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts) twice, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next st for point, (sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st) twice: repeat from * across, end (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in last st. Change color, ch 5, turn.

Row 2: 3 dc in 1st ch 3 sp, (3 dc bet next two 3 dc groups) twice, *sk sp bet next 2 groups, (3 dc bet next 2 groups) twice, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch 3 sp, (3 dc bet next 2 groups) twice; rep from * across, end (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in last ch 5 sp, ch , turn.

Repeat Row 2 for Pattern Stitch throughout, working 2 rows of each color and one row Black, to desired length, with full color sequences, ending in black. Tie off.

Edging: Row 1: With Black, work 1 row sc, evenly spaced around entire outside edge, join with sl st in 1st sc. Tie off.

NOTE:  I added an extra row of black to each end, just because I thought it looked nicer.


This pattern is the property of the designer. It is available for use, free of charge, for personal use only. No copies of this pattern or images may be sold or reproduced for profit, without the express permission of the author.

Bedspread: Stained Glass Window #1

I've been playing with color designs and have come up with this one. It uses simple granny squares, assembled according to a chart to create a stained glass window throw. It is large.

This is a large project and requires around 1 skein of each color used, except black, which will take about 2 skeins.

GRANNY SQUARES

Finished square measures approximately 2”, using worsted weight yarn and a G (4.0 mm) hook.

Round 1: Ch 4. 11 Dc in 4th ch from hook (the first ch). There are now 12 dc in first ch (ch 3 counts as one dc). Sl st in top of first ch. 3 to join.

Round 2: Sl st in next st. Ch 3 in next space between dc posts. 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc, ch 1 3 dc between dc posts.* Repeat between *twice more. 2 dc in same space as beginning ch 3. Sl st in top of first ch. 3 to join.

Finish off, weave in loose ends.

ASSEMBLY

Complete the squares in the desired colors and assemble according to the diagram, either by crocheting along edges or using a darning needle and mattress stitch.

After assembling the squares, use black and sc around the entire piece to finish.

Finished dimensions: Approximately 62" X 74"

This pattern is the property of the designer. It is available for use, free of charge, for personal use only. No copies of this pattern or images may be sold or reproduced for profit, without the express permission of the author.

Peanut Butter Cup Mittens

I created these mittens as an improvisation for the 11 Mittens in 2011 Challenge in the I Make Mittens group, on Ravelry. I really like how they turned out, so I'm recording the pattern.

PEANUT BUTTER CUP MITTENS

















MATERIALS
75 Yards each, Color A (CA) and Color B (CB)
Crochet Hook, H (5.00 mm)

HAND

With CA, chain 45. Join to form ring.
Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook. sc in next 2 ch. *3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 ch, sk 2 ch,* repeat between * around and join to first sc with sl st. 5 points created.
Join CB (carry CA inside mitten to be joined at next row).
Round 2: Sk joining stitch. *1 sc in next 3 ch, sk 2 ch, 3 sc in next sc*, repeat between * around and join to first sc with sl st.
Round 3: Pick up CB and continue pattern.
Rounds 4-9: Continue alternating colors each row, in pat.
Rounds 10-14: Continue in pat but DO NOT JOIN at end of round. At the end of the round, join the new color, ch.1 turn and work back in rows, in pat. This creates the opening for the thumb.
Rounds 15-29: Join row 15 with sl st. as at beginning. Continue alternating colors each row, in pat, as in rounds 4-9.
Rounds 30-31: Work dec. sc all around (2 sc tog). This creates a slight curve to the end of the mitten.

THUMB

With CA, ch 14. Join to form a ring. Place marker in the joining sl st.
Work sc around for 10 rounds. Cut about a 3" tail on yarn and knot to prevent raveling. Work the tail around the end and pull like a drawstring to close the end of the thumb. Tie off and work in the end. Turn right side out.

Turn mitten body inside out and place thumb inside at the thumb hole, so that right sides of the thumb are touching the right sides of the glove. Using whip or mattress stitching, attach thumb to mitten body. Tie off and work in loose end.

Turn Mitten right-side out.

FINISHING

With same color as end of mitten (CA), sl st or sew end closed. Tie off, work in loose end.

With CA, attach to BOTTOM of mitten and work in pat around to create smoother edge. Tie off and work in loose end.

This pattern is the property of the writer, TheHaunt, and may only be used for personal projects. It may not be sold or otherwise used for profit without the express and written permission of the author.

Sideways Ripple Sweater Pattern

This pattern is the property of the writer, TheHaunt, and may only be used for personal projects. It may not be sold or otherwise used for profit without the express and written permission of the author.

This pattern makes a plus-sized ladies sweater of approximately size 3x.

SLEEVE CUFF 1

Ch. 80.
Row 1
In color 1, Sk. 1st ch. *Sc in next 2 ch.; 3 sc in next ch.; Sc in next 2 ch.; sk. 2 ch.* Repeat from * to end of chain, ch.1, Turn.
Row 2
2 sc in first sc. Sk 2 sc. 1 sc in next 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc (the middle sc of the 3 sc cluster in the previous row), sc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * to end.

This creates the ripple effect pattern and will be worked in pat throughout the remainder of the pattern.

Alternate colors desired every 2 rows.

After 8 rows, begin increasing 2 sc per every other row (one inc at each end of the row) until 130 total sc on the row.

Work 5 rows in pat.


BODY

At the end of the 5th pat row, chain 40.
Work in pat to end of row, then chain 40 st, again. (204 st total).

For the added crochet sections for the body, carefully work out the pat pattern so that it is consistant with the sleeve, then work in pat.

Work rows, in pat, until work measures about 5-1/2".

DIVIDE FOR NECK OPENING

Work in pat for 102 st. Turn, leaving remaining stitches for later.
Work this section in pat until the work from the dividing row measures 17".
Break yarn.

With appropriate color, join with RS facing, to the back of the neck opening.
Work in pat as for the front, but DO NOT BREAK YARN.

JOINING BACK AND FRONT OF NECK

Work in pat across back neck section, then continue without turning to the edge of the front section and continue working in pat to end. Join completed.

Continue in pat unti the work from the joining row measure about 5-1/4".

SLEEVE 2

Slip stitch over 1st 37 st of next row, work in pat over 130 st. Turn (this will leave 37 st. on the other end of the row, to mirror the start of the body).

Work 6 rows in pat.

Decrease 1 st on each end of every other row (2 dec per row, every other row) until there are 80 st. in the row.

Work 8 rows in pat. Break yarn and weave in loose ends.

Sew side and sleave seams.

EDGING (optional)

If desired, work sc in contrasting color around all edges, following pat. For neck and waist edging work 1 sc in the end of each row, evenly around the edge.

The Doll Project

I've been wanting to crochet a doll and make clothes for her, for quite some time. My biggest problem has been finding a doll pattern that I like.

I'm trying one by Beth Webber: Free Spirit Doll Pattern

Here is the initial effort... she still needs a little blush and a mouth...


... more to come, as it happens.

7/30/2010 - unhappy with the project, overall. The head is just too big and even with the spool support in the neck, she is far too top-heavy. I am considering making another type of doll to pursue this idea...

Crochet Projects -past

Just a few projects I have in my possession.

I have made many more, but they were given as gifts to others.